Whilst the area of Illora has some prehistoric remains, including remains from palaeolithic and neolithic times on the slopes of the Sierra Parapanda and the Sierra Pelada, the extent of remains has been limited by lack of conservation. The known history of the Illora area begins around 650 B.C.. when the town had established contacts with the fenicia, illustrating substantial economic and cultural growth of the town.

Between 650 and 750 B.C. the Phoenicians, who were establishing close trading links with the Iberians, began to explore further inland. However, this lead to some conflict and, coinciding with the decline of the Phoenician empire, their influence declined

In 201 B.C. the Romans, already established within Spain, came into what was by then already an unusually well mixed area, both culturally and ethnically.  As the Romans expanded their control in Spain, Illora came under Roman control.  At this time, Julius Caesar was appointed Governor of the province, based in Valencia, prior to his later conquest of Gaul and Britain, which then led to the civil war between the forces of Pompey and Julius Caesar.  It seems that, at this point, Illora was transferred by agreement to the control of the authorities in Cordoba.

 As Roman attention moved elsewhere and, eventually, the Roman Empire went into decline, the first barbar towns of the vandals and silingios were established in the area of Illora in 409 A.D.  The ensuing religious infighting were halted by the roman Emperor Justinian but the Roman empire had lost it way and handed control of most of Gaul and Spain to the Visigoths, whose influence in the area is clear.

 The first arab invaders came from modern day Syria and occupied much of the area.  Between 852 and 862 religious disputes and persecution took hold as different groups gained control at different times.  A young Christian priest came onto the scene and did his utmost to promote Christianity in a climate of great persecution - especially from the authorities in Cordoba.  His determination to carry out his role led to his death and martyrdom, when he challenged the arabs who were established in Illora.  This young priest is now San Rogelio and the patron saint of the town of Illora.

This was the time of the imposition of the Caliphate under the Moors, quite newly arrived, who spreads control of the region quickly, uniting the various factions.  The Moors brought much greater organisation of localities and enormous benefits to the local populace during their 5 centuries in Spain.  The town of "Ilyura" was formally created by the Moors and, during this early period of their control, the castle of Illora was built.  The castle sits on top of the rock which dominates the centre of Illora and its remains are there to see now.  The castle formed part of a chain of fortifications, including the towers in Montefrio and Moclin, designed to provide early warning of any incursion for the Moorish rulers of the Nazrid kingdom in the Alhambra in Granada.  Within this net, Illora became known as "Granada's Right Eye".

The castle of Illora consists of three sections - the centre of the castle, the Alcazaba and the Arrabal, each clearly differentiated but forming one integral whole.  The castle became the scene for numerous courtly intrigues.  In the rooms here, the nobles of the Abencerrajes appointed Sultan Abu Hassan Ali, who was later dethroned by Yusuf V.  Illora was also the site of the dismissal of Muhammed VIII and the arrest of his Vizier.  Times had changed and king fought king in an effort to dominate.  The disputes were finally settled by Fernando III, at which point Illora's fortunes changed and healthy economic growth, particularly through agriculture, was seen.

In the 15th century, Ferdinand and Isabella, joint monarchs or Aragon and Castile, began a campaign of re-conquest of the whole region under Moorish control, in which the town of Illora became one of the last Moorish frontiers. On 8th June 1486, the forces of Ferdinand and Isabella took the town of Illora in what was a bitter battle. Gonzalo Fernandez de Cordoba was appointed the first Christina Mayor of the town of Illora. The change to Christian rule resulted in persecution of the Moorish population as well as the wealthy landowners and transfer of land to the Christians was often bitterly contested. Economically, the town suffered as a consequence.

Aside from the castle, the other most notable building in Illora is the Church of the Incarnation. The church was built on land where a mosque had stood and it is possible, by arrangement, to look under the church where Moorish arches can still in what may have formed a passage direct between the mosque and the inside of the castle, high on the rock above it. The church combines Renaissance and Gothic styles and construction began in 1541. The main building is split between four great pillars, which give a feeling of great height within the church. The church was largely built with stones from the Moorish castle – accounting, along with pillaging by the local populace, for its present ruined condition. Also by arrangement at the church, it is possible to climb up to see the big bells in the unique tower, which are still in active use today.

Another notable building in Illora is the Ajuntamiento, or town hall. This was constructed between 1669 and 1688 and was built as the Convent of Saint Peter of Alcantara. The cost of building the convent was divided equally between the town inhabitants and the order. The convent had a clear social function and the building was used as a hospital and as accommodation for the needy. It was vacated by the nuns in 1835 and was auctioned, although the Church within the building continued to be used after this.

Also built in the 17th century, the Museum of Illora, which faces the Church of the Incarnation across Plaza San Rogelio, has had a number of uses. First built as Saint Raphael Church, itg later became a wheat store. After the French occupation under Napoleon, the building became the headquarters of the local French commander. After the Independence War, the building was first restored as a consistory. After this, the town hall was established here. As the town of Illora grew, the administration outgrew the building and moved to its present location. It now serves both as the town Library and Museum.

Illora is rich in history and, as such, is typical of the surrounding area. A stay in Illora is a chance to enjoy the Alhambra and all that Granada is well known for, as well as to be able to easily tour the surrounding area and further afield to the great towns of Cordoba, Sevilla and Jaen, as well as towns closer by, such as Alhama de Granada, with their own rich past.

Please go to Staying in Illora for more details on the benefits of making Casa Pilar Alto Illora the base for your Andulcia holiday.