The cathedral town of Gaudix is off the beaten path, in the eastern edge of the Province of Granada, a large, bustling country town with a personality all of its own. Its history dates back to Phoenician and Roman times, and it played a major role in the re-conquest of the region by the catholic monarchs.

The fascinating feature of the Guadix area is that almost half of the inhabitants of this large town live underground, in the southern part of the town, in what is known as cave houses. The jagged ochre terrain and the dazzling whitewashed chimneys and doors of the caves contrast dramatically with the snow-covered peaks of the Sierra Nevada, which loom above. The cave district is signposted on the main street of the town as the "Barrio Troglodyte".

You should get out and take a stroll through the cave area. The "troglodytes" are very friendly people and are also very house-proud. Ever since the Moorish times, the Andalucians have been fond of living underground because it is the best way of escaping the summer heat waves, and do not be surprised if you are invited in to have a look around. Most of today's cave-dwellings are well-appointed, like any other Spanish home, and some are even quite luxurious, with marble floors, fitted kitchens, faxes and internet connections.

In the centre of Guadix, you should not miss the Cathedral, founded in 1594, and the Cave Museum - Plaza de la Ermita Nueva. Also, be sure to see the fascinating Castle of the Calahorra in the village of La Calahorra just a few miles to the East. This impressive fort was awarded to a Christian knight for his role in the re-conquest, and fitted by him with a gracious Renaissance courtyard made of Italian marble and by Florentine craftsmen.